Last night I accompanied a friend to an Irish-speaking-only pub where musicians gather for a traditional Irish music jam…and I joined in with my fiddle! We were 15-20 musicians in a circle playing together, and other portions of the building had similar groups, one even with some ceilidh dancing--oh my, what an experience! This was a total immersion in Irish culture, as if being taken back many decades and into the country many miles. There were no tourists present, and I was not merely an observer but a participant. :)
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Saturday, February 16, 2008
German History and the Flag
It is my host's birthday, so he had a gathering of his parents and grandparents. Those generations only knew German, so I spent considerable time in my own world thinking.
It's pretty neat to be sitting her with four generations of Germans. My, what a broad range of experiences this lives have had and will have. I imagined each one representing a different facet of German history and experience. These young boys are being raised in a society that is vastly different from that of their grandparents and great grandparents. So much has transpired here over the past 80 years.
I thought of the memories the great grandparents must have, living through World War II. The stories they could tell, the reflections held deep within. And my generation present would speak of the fall of the Berlin wall and the changes before and after the German reunification in 1990, when East Germany was incorporated into West Germany.
We have even seen a significant shift within the last 2 years. Ever since WWII, there has been a serious reluctance by Germans to display their flag. Any show of patriotism conjured up negative images of what nationalism did as Germans blindly followed their leader in the past. It seemed to have an association with aggression and the continuity of the Third Reich (even though it used a different flag...). So while national pride could be present, one certainly did not want to proclaim it by waving flags and other symbols of their allegiance. Until 2006, the German flag was only seen in official government contexts, such as flying over the Parliament building, but never by the general public.
Then came the surprise. Germany hosted the 2006 World Cup, and German flags were suddenly flown by the exuberant sports fans. Germany was a top contender in these soccer championships, and the black, red, and gold began to appear on t-shirts, stickers, umbrellas, etc. It seems so natural for us Americans to see the flag of our country, but for the Germans this was a new development, a step of freedom from the past and great hope for the future. Way to go, Germany!
It's pretty neat to be sitting her with four generations of Germans. My, what a broad range of experiences this lives have had and will have. I imagined each one representing a different facet of German history and experience. These young boys are being raised in a society that is vastly different from that of their grandparents and great grandparents. So much has transpired here over the past 80 years.
I thought of the memories the great grandparents must have, living through World War II. The stories they could tell, the reflections held deep within. And my generation present would speak of the fall of the Berlin wall and the changes before and after the German reunification in 1990, when East Germany was incorporated into West Germany.
We have even seen a significant shift within the last 2 years. Ever since WWII, there has been a serious reluctance by Germans to display their flag. Any show of patriotism conjured up negative images of what nationalism did as Germans blindly followed their leader in the past. It seemed to have an association with aggression and the continuity of the Third Reich (even though it used a different flag...). So while national pride could be present, one certainly did not want to proclaim it by waving flags and other symbols of their allegiance. Until 2006, the German flag was only seen in official government contexts, such as flying over the Parliament building, but never by the general public.
Then came the surprise. Germany hosted the 2006 World Cup, and German flags were suddenly flown by the exuberant sports fans. Germany was a top contender in these soccer championships, and the black, red, and gold began to appear on t-shirts, stickers, umbrellas, etc. It seems so natural for us Americans to see the flag of our country, but for the Germans this was a new development, a step of freedom from the past and great hope for the future. Way to go, Germany!
Friday, February 15, 2008
Utrecht and Fairy Tales
We went to Utrecht, The Netherlands, for a one-day workshop. Utrecht is yet another charming city! Canals, old churches, etc.
A professor invited a small group of us over for lunch during the break (easily walkable city). We were amused by the international representation: German, Dutch, French, American, Turkish, Iranian, Argentinian, Chinese...all having mathematics as a common "universal" language. :)
The drive back to Aachen was 3 hours...so I had one of the guys tell us Fairy Tales--I thought many were of German origin, assembled by the Brother's Grimm, so this might be fun. We started with Rapunzel ("Rapunzel, Rapunzel, let down your hair!"), then Rumpelstiltskin ("how good that no one knows that Rumpelstiltskin is my name!"), then Little Red Riding Hood ("my, what big eyes/ears/teeth you have!").
What fun this story-telling was, indeed! Boy, I really have forgotten so much, it was very entertaining to hear the details...and together we sometimes had to brainstorm to try to remember parts of the story ("Now how did the peasant girl have a necklace to give to Rumpelstiltskin if she was so poor?") or what the moral/message was supposed to be...("never sneak into a witch's garden for some rapunzel salad...?" haha). It's neat how these fairy tales cross over the ocean and country borders, common memories we all had as children. :)
A professor invited a small group of us over for lunch during the break (easily walkable city). We were amused by the international representation: German, Dutch, French, American, Turkish, Iranian, Argentinian, Chinese...all having mathematics as a common "universal" language. :)
The drive back to Aachen was 3 hours...so I had one of the guys tell us Fairy Tales--I thought many were of German origin, assembled by the Brother's Grimm, so this might be fun. We started with Rapunzel ("Rapunzel, Rapunzel, let down your hair!"), then Rumpelstiltskin ("how good that no one knows that Rumpelstiltskin is my name!"), then Little Red Riding Hood ("my, what big eyes/ears/teeth you have!").
What fun this story-telling was, indeed! Boy, I really have forgotten so much, it was very entertaining to hear the details...and together we sometimes had to brainstorm to try to remember parts of the story ("Now how did the peasant girl have a necklace to give to Rumpelstiltskin if she was so poor?") or what the moral/message was supposed to be...("never sneak into a witch's garden for some rapunzel salad...?" haha). It's neat how these fairy tales cross over the ocean and country borders, common memories we all had as children. :)
Germany and Scientology
My hosts have informed me that a really hot topic in the news right now is concerning Germany's move towards banning the Church of Scientology from Germany. My hosts asked if this is a trend in the US also. I assured them it wasn't, and I inquired to know more of the facts.
The German officials are not viewing it as a religion, but as an organization or business, that they believe has ambitions contrary to a democratic order and possibly in violation of the constitution. Basically, it seems that the government officials are very sensitive to any anti-democratic activity, due to the traumatic occurrences in German history, and so now they are serious about preventing the rise of an organization with any possible resemblance to the rise of the Nazi regime. They have had a special surveillance on the Scientology since 1997.
Just this week, a German court upheld a ruling sanctioning the monitoring of Scientology by Germany's intelligence service. The ruling stated: "There are concrete indications that Scientology's activities are to implement Scientology's program in Germany and to expand more and more Scientology's principles in government, economy and society". The court cited "numerous indications" that "central constitutional values such as the dignity of mankind and the right to equal treatment would be suspended or restricted," in a Scientology society.
The above synopsis is taken from Deutsche Welle, as is the following:
"During the court proceedings the German court heard testimony concerning anti-democratic statements made by L. Ron Hubbard, the American founder of Scientology who died in 1986. The court did not find any evidence that the organization had distanced itself from Hubbard's statements. Certain statements made by Hubbard detail how to harass ex-members and critics of Scientology."
Very interesting...
It seems some rulings in this case will hinge on the distinction between a religious movement and a political one. Has Islam in Germany has escaped these trials--despite the honor killings that are also taking place there--because Islam is a "religion?" (What about Sharia law...? Last week I learned that some in England are proposing having parallel laws following the Sharia system.)
Can a distinction be made between a person's involvement in a religious versus political movement, or does faith, when it is truly upheld, encompass one's entire involvement in society, and hence manifest itself in realms outside the confines of the church/temple/mosque/synagogue?
Seems these were issues the founding fathers of the US wrestled with as well...and aimed to establish a land where religious freedom is upheld, and yet where a democratic society is not at peril. Indeed, the more I travel and live in other countries, the more I realize the differences in the principles on which America was founded.
The German officials are not viewing it as a religion, but as an organization or business, that they believe has ambitions contrary to a democratic order and possibly in violation of the constitution. Basically, it seems that the government officials are very sensitive to any anti-democratic activity, due to the traumatic occurrences in German history, and so now they are serious about preventing the rise of an organization with any possible resemblance to the rise of the Nazi regime. They have had a special surveillance on the Scientology since 1997.
Just this week, a German court upheld a ruling sanctioning the monitoring of Scientology by Germany's intelligence service. The ruling stated: "There are concrete indications that Scientology's activities are to implement Scientology's program in Germany and to expand more and more Scientology's principles in government, economy and society". The court cited "numerous indications" that "central constitutional values such as the dignity of mankind and the right to equal treatment would be suspended or restricted," in a Scientology society.
The above synopsis is taken from Deutsche Welle, as is the following:
"During the court proceedings the German court heard testimony concerning anti-democratic statements made by L. Ron Hubbard, the American founder of Scientology who died in 1986. The court did not find any evidence that the organization had distanced itself from Hubbard's statements. Certain statements made by Hubbard detail how to harass ex-members and critics of Scientology."
Very interesting...
It seems some rulings in this case will hinge on the distinction between a religious movement and a political one. Has Islam in Germany has escaped these trials--despite the honor killings that are also taking place there--because Islam is a "religion?" (What about Sharia law...? Last week I learned that some in England are proposing having parallel laws following the Sharia system.)
Can a distinction be made between a person's involvement in a religious versus political movement, or does faith, when it is truly upheld, encompass one's entire involvement in society, and hence manifest itself in realms outside the confines of the church/temple/mosque/synagogue?
Seems these were issues the founding fathers of the US wrestled with as well...and aimed to establish a land where religious freedom is upheld, and yet where a democratic society is not at peril. Indeed, the more I travel and live in other countries, the more I realize the differences in the principles on which America was founded.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Baseball and Kniffel
My host family in German has two boys, ages 5 and 8, and they are totally into football (soccer). But their grandparents were in the US and bought the equipment for playing baseball, so they needed me to teach them this great American past-time.
Well, let's just say it's a lot easier to kick a soccer ball than to hit a tiny baseball with a bat! The boys struggled for a long time and eventually the older one could hit the ball, while the younger one ran around the bases...and kept running around, past home plate multiple times, until the pitcher (me or the father) chased down the ball. Then it would be time to pitch, hit, run again.
I decided not to enforce the rules of strikes, balls, and outs, for we were just thrilled they were finally making contact with the ball and weren't utterly bored...Plus, baseball isn't so easy to play with just 2-3 players, whereas fun can be had with soccer with such minimal people.
Soon the neighborhood kids joined and were fascinated by this new sport. But eventually
they all returned to playing soccer.
We adults went inside for a game of Kniffel. This is the German form of Yahtzee. It's exactly, 100% the same game. Yet nowhere on the box or in the instructions is the word Yahtzee mentioned. One yells, "Kniffel!" when they get 5 of a kind with the dice.
(I wonder which came first, or what the rules are about copying another company's game...?)
Just for the record, I won, with 328 points.
Well, let's just say it's a lot easier to kick a soccer ball than to hit a tiny baseball with a bat! The boys struggled for a long time and eventually the older one could hit the ball, while the younger one ran around the bases...and kept running around, past home plate multiple times, until the pitcher (me or the father) chased down the ball. Then it would be time to pitch, hit, run again.
I decided not to enforce the rules of strikes, balls, and outs, for we were just thrilled they were finally making contact with the ball and weren't utterly bored...Plus, baseball isn't so easy to play with just 2-3 players, whereas fun can be had with soccer with such minimal people.
Soon the neighborhood kids joined and were fascinated by this new sport. But eventually
they all returned to playing soccer.
We adults went inside for a game of Kniffel. This is the German form of Yahtzee. It's exactly, 100% the same game. Yet nowhere on the box or in the instructions is the word Yahtzee mentioned. One yells, "Kniffel!" when they get 5 of a kind with the dice.
(I wonder which came first, or what the rules are about copying another company's game...?)
Just for the record, I won, with 328 points.
Having children and working in Germany
From what I've been told (I haven't researched for the official documents declaring this, but I have reputable sources...), in Germany you get paid 150 euro per child per month. The amount changes as the number of kids increases, but I know this is the case for the first 2. Pretty cool, helps to pay for day care when they're young, if needed, etc. Also, the mother gets paid 60% of salary the first year she stays home (with a different percentage in subsequent years). She is allowed 3 years off and return to work, the job cannot let her go.
In the Aachen area (it may vary for the various states in Germany), the school day for grades 0-5 is from 8:00am-10:30am, with a few adjustments on certain days. Then for all subsequent grades, until graduation, the day ends at 1:00pm. Wow! Can you imagine? All the time the kids have for other activities, and all the time the parents have either with the kids, or needing to find care for them while parents are working.
(In Texas, the school day was from 8am-3pm for early grades, then 9am-4pm for middle grades, then 7:30am-2:30pm for upper grades.)
Regarding adults' working schedule, employers are required by government regulation to give their workers 4 weeks of paid holiday vacation! (Same in Ireland). Furthermore, Germans tell me it is quite standard to actually get 6 weeks paid vacation off. Wow, in the US, you are lucky to get 2 weeks?
In the Aachen area (it may vary for the various states in Germany), the school day for grades 0-5 is from 8:00am-10:30am, with a few adjustments on certain days. Then for all subsequent grades, until graduation, the day ends at 1:00pm. Wow! Can you imagine? All the time the kids have for other activities, and all the time the parents have either with the kids, or needing to find care for them while parents are working.
(In Texas, the school day was from 8am-3pm for early grades, then 9am-4pm for middle grades, then 7:30am-2:30pm for upper grades.)
Regarding adults' working schedule, employers are required by government regulation to give their workers 4 weeks of paid holiday vacation! (Same in Ireland). Furthermore, Germans tell me it is quite standard to actually get 6 weeks paid vacation off. Wow, in the US, you are lucky to get 2 weeks?
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Beverages
In German (and The Netherlands), when you order a beverage, you pay at least 2 euro for a very tiny class of the drink. And unlike the US, there are no refills on drinks. So you must learn to ration it out, or be prepared to pay for several.
Some of the Germans are absolutely amazed at the notion of free, unlimited refills in a restaurant, in a large glass, and with ice! And a waiter/waitress who comes by regularly to do this! Whoa, never in Europe, every aspect of this is unheard of.
Furthermore, you cannot order a glass of tap water. You must purchase a (tiny) bottle of water for 2 euro. In Germany, if you do not specify, you will be brought sparkling water. In The Netherlands, you will be asked, "with gas?". Um, yes...I'd like my water with gas... (??)
Okay, sometimes you can get away with saying you'd like water with bubbles and make a little motion with your hands/fingers of bubbles floating to the top.
Actually, even in the homes in Germany, the standard is to be served sparkling water. The tap water is completely safe to drink, but folks just prefer sparkling. Indeed, I've become a bit preferential towards it myself.
Also, there is a new marketing strategy that Coca-cola is using--perhaps it's in the the US as well, but I've only noticed it in Germany, since I am not around sodas otherwise. Well, first, what is a "Diet Coke" in the US is a "Cola Light" in German, and the label is typically a bit lighter colored than the regular version. But this has sort of a bias towards ladies, as men don't want to appear that they are watching their weight. So the new name is "Coke Zero" and the labels are typically in all black with some streaks of silver...looks more like something a race car driver would purchase. Evidently, men aren't as embarrassed to be seen drinking this. Funny how you can coerce the male species. ;)
Also, in restaurants in Germany, there is no concept of a "wait list"--you know, if there is a crowd and no more seats, to be put on a wait list. That is a foreign notion to them. Basically, if a group comes to dinner, they are entitled to the table for the entire evening, there is no rush by the restaurant staff to push them on their way, hence there is no usefulness for a wait list for tables that will not become vacant any time soon.
Some of the Germans are absolutely amazed at the notion of free, unlimited refills in a restaurant, in a large glass, and with ice! And a waiter/waitress who comes by regularly to do this! Whoa, never in Europe, every aspect of this is unheard of.
Furthermore, you cannot order a glass of tap water. You must purchase a (tiny) bottle of water for 2 euro. In Germany, if you do not specify, you will be brought sparkling water. In The Netherlands, you will be asked, "with gas?". Um, yes...I'd like my water with gas... (??)
Okay, sometimes you can get away with saying you'd like water with bubbles and make a little motion with your hands/fingers of bubbles floating to the top.
Actually, even in the homes in Germany, the standard is to be served sparkling water. The tap water is completely safe to drink, but folks just prefer sparkling. Indeed, I've become a bit preferential towards it myself.
Also, there is a new marketing strategy that Coca-cola is using--perhaps it's in the the US as well, but I've only noticed it in Germany, since I am not around sodas otherwise. Well, first, what is a "Diet Coke" in the US is a "Cola Light" in German, and the label is typically a bit lighter colored than the regular version. But this has sort of a bias towards ladies, as men don't want to appear that they are watching their weight. So the new name is "Coke Zero" and the labels are typically in all black with some streaks of silver...looks more like something a race car driver would purchase. Evidently, men aren't as embarrassed to be seen drinking this. Funny how you can coerce the male species. ;)
Also, in restaurants in Germany, there is no concept of a "wait list"--you know, if there is a crowd and no more seats, to be put on a wait list. That is a foreign notion to them. Basically, if a group comes to dinner, they are entitled to the table for the entire evening, there is no rush by the restaurant staff to push them on their way, hence there is no usefulness for a wait list for tables that will not become vacant any time soon.
Tea, Chocolate, Bread, Cheese, Salami
The Irish and British way to drink tea is with milk (no, not "creamer"). In Germany and The Netherlands, this is not customary at all, they just serve it plain.
But I confess, I now require milk in my tea in order to experience its full pleasure. Ahhh.
Meanwhile, the Germans sure do love their chocolate! Whenever I've gone into someone's home, I am immediately served chocolate. Not that I'm complaining--they do have some great chocolates! I'm now in Aachen, where there is a Lindt factory...mmm.
Aachen is also known for its local specialty "printen"--similar to gingerbread, but different...containing spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, aniseed, clove, coriander, ginger, and sweetened with honey.
Germans also have really good breads--hard and hearty breads, none of the soft airy stuff found elsewhere. In fact, my German colleagues were laughing about how in the States, you can take an entire loaf of bread between your hands and compress it together to be half the size! There is definitely no doing this with German breads. :)
Also, the Germans love their cheese. The standard breakfast is bread with cheese and salami. The same could be served for lunch or dinner, with no hesitation, day after day...give them bread and cheese (and some beer) and they are happy...
But I confess, I now require milk in my tea in order to experience its full pleasure. Ahhh.
Meanwhile, the Germans sure do love their chocolate! Whenever I've gone into someone's home, I am immediately served chocolate. Not that I'm complaining--they do have some great chocolates! I'm now in Aachen, where there is a Lindt factory...mmm.
Aachen is also known for its local specialty "printen"--similar to gingerbread, but different...containing spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, aniseed, clove, coriander, ginger, and sweetened with honey.
Germans also have really good breads--hard and hearty breads, none of the soft airy stuff found elsewhere. In fact, my German colleagues were laughing about how in the States, you can take an entire loaf of bread between your hands and compress it together to be half the size! There is definitely no doing this with German breads. :)
Also, the Germans love their cheese. The standard breakfast is bread with cheese and salami. The same could be served for lunch or dinner, with no hesitation, day after day...give them bread and cheese (and some beer) and they are happy...
Monday, February 11, 2008
Go Green!
I'm not sure if the "Go Green!" movement is taking off in the US, but it is going strong in Europe, and has been in some form for over 10 years.
Supermarkets do not provided bags, rather you must bring your own re-useable bag from home, whereas in the US, you can choose between paper or plastic, and easily get items double-bagged if they are heavy.
Kids are taught in school about recycling and being environmentally conscious, just as they are taught to brush their teeth and other basic aspects of life. People keep each other accountable--kids/parents are often ridiculed at school if they drink from a can instead of a refillable bottle.
There are separate containers for the various types of rubbish, and you can be fined if not abiding by these procedures. From my experience in the US, at best you may live in a neighborhood that provides containers and pick-up for the recyclables, but there is no enforcement, so it is still essentially on your own shoulders/conscience to recycle.
In Ireland, by the year 2009, there will be a complete ban on traditional incandescent light bulbs, with the aim that all of Europe will follow suit. I cannot imagine this going over well in the US...many Americans would revolt if they weren't given the "liberty" to buy whatever light bulbs they desired... But perhaps it could work. After all, prohibiting smoking indoors has been adopted in many places in the US, and Europe is slowly encouraging the same (though not yet to the extent as in the States).
Also, in Europe, there are serious efforts made at limiting water consumption. The toilets have very minimal resting water levels, and there are two buttons available to press: one for a light flush, and another for a heavier flush. Also, it is extremely common for people to hang their clothes out to dry rather than using an electric or gas dryer. And of course, the cars get much better gas mileage in Europe...
Supermarkets do not provided bags, rather you must bring your own re-useable bag from home, whereas in the US, you can choose between paper or plastic, and easily get items double-bagged if they are heavy.
Kids are taught in school about recycling and being environmentally conscious, just as they are taught to brush their teeth and other basic aspects of life. People keep each other accountable--kids/parents are often ridiculed at school if they drink from a can instead of a refillable bottle.
There are separate containers for the various types of rubbish, and you can be fined if not abiding by these procedures. From my experience in the US, at best you may live in a neighborhood that provides containers and pick-up for the recyclables, but there is no enforcement, so it is still essentially on your own shoulders/conscience to recycle.
In Ireland, by the year 2009, there will be a complete ban on traditional incandescent light bulbs, with the aim that all of Europe will follow suit. I cannot imagine this going over well in the US...many Americans would revolt if they weren't given the "liberty" to buy whatever light bulbs they desired... But perhaps it could work. After all, prohibiting smoking indoors has been adopted in many places in the US, and Europe is slowly encouraging the same (though not yet to the extent as in the States).
Also, in Europe, there are serious efforts made at limiting water consumption. The toilets have very minimal resting water levels, and there are two buttons available to press: one for a light flush, and another for a heavier flush. Also, it is extremely common for people to hang their clothes out to dry rather than using an electric or gas dryer. And of course, the cars get much better gas mileage in Europe...
Logical Mechanisms
I think I may have mentioned this about shopping in Ireland, but it's the same way in Germany, and it makes so much sense! I totally can't figure out why we don't adopt similar mechanisms in the US...
I'm referring to the shopping cart ("trolly") system in Europe. They are stacked together with a chain attaching them to each other. You insert one euro and are able to detach one trolly. When you are finished using it, you attach it back and your euro is returned. Simple as pie. This prevents trollies from being scattered all about the parking lot ("car park"), knocking into cars in the wind, blocking spaces available for cars, etc. Also prevents having to pay an employee to stand around outside in the rain/cold/heat, collecting the stray trollies all day long.
This is logical. Let's do it in the States!
I saw another incredible mechanism I saw was in a bookstore in Aachen. It was absolutely cold outside, literally below freezing, and the main front doors of the bookstore were wide open! What?? Isn't this a terrible feat, trying to heat the bookstore, while allowing the cold to gush in and/or the heat to escape?
The solution they were using is a wall of warm air! There was warm air being shot down from some mechanism lining the top of the doorway, creating a "wall" of warm air--you felt like you were walking through a thick layer of cotton or something, but it was the warm air pressing. Evidently this does a superb job of preventing the exchange of air temperature inside and out. Awesome!
I'm referring to the shopping cart ("trolly") system in Europe. They are stacked together with a chain attaching them to each other. You insert one euro and are able to detach one trolly. When you are finished using it, you attach it back and your euro is returned. Simple as pie. This prevents trollies from being scattered all about the parking lot ("car park"), knocking into cars in the wind, blocking spaces available for cars, etc. Also prevents having to pay an employee to stand around outside in the rain/cold/heat, collecting the stray trollies all day long.
This is logical. Let's do it in the States!
I saw another incredible mechanism I saw was in a bookstore in Aachen. It was absolutely cold outside, literally below freezing, and the main front doors of the bookstore were wide open! What?? Isn't this a terrible feat, trying to heat the bookstore, while allowing the cold to gush in and/or the heat to escape?
The solution they were using is a wall of warm air! There was warm air being shot down from some mechanism lining the top of the doorway, creating a "wall" of warm air--you felt like you were walking through a thick layer of cotton or something, but it was the warm air pressing. Evidently this does a superb job of preventing the exchange of air temperature inside and out. Awesome!
Sunday, February 10, 2008
's-Hertogenbosh
One of the few cities in the world whose name begins with an apostrophe!
But it is commonly referred to as Den Bosch. I went there for the afternoon with a colleague (25 minutes by train from Eindhoven).
This is another charming city of The Netherlands, with a rich historical heritage. It survived WWII better than most towns, so there are wonderful old buildings and windy cobblestone roads dating back to the 13th century. It really has the feel of a medieval town. There are canals running throughout the town, and the main attraction is the huge St. John's Cathedral--indeed, a very beautiful church, dating from around 1220.
We went to the Hieronymus Bosch Art Center (in what was an old church). He lived from 1450-1516, yet his paintings are quite different from the other works of that time period. He uses tremendous color, bold imagination, creative figures such as half-human animals, symbolism, humor, and yet honestly addresses serious moral and spiritual struggles of humankind, good versus evil, heaven versus hell, etc. He really draws the viewer in. The museum brought the characters to life, reminding me of Alice in Wonderland, and we took a tour that analyzed various paintings in details, their meanings, etc.
This was my first exposure to Hieronymus Bosch, and I must say I enjoyed his work.
But it is commonly referred to as Den Bosch. I went there for the afternoon with a colleague (25 minutes by train from Eindhoven).
This is another charming city of The Netherlands, with a rich historical heritage. It survived WWII better than most towns, so there are wonderful old buildings and windy cobblestone roads dating back to the 13th century. It really has the feel of a medieval town. There are canals running throughout the town, and the main attraction is the huge St. John's Cathedral--indeed, a very beautiful church, dating from around 1220.
We went to the Hieronymus Bosch Art Center (in what was an old church). He lived from 1450-1516, yet his paintings are quite different from the other works of that time period. He uses tremendous color, bold imagination, creative figures such as half-human animals, symbolism, humor, and yet honestly addresses serious moral and spiritual struggles of humankind, good versus evil, heaven versus hell, etc. He really draws the viewer in. The museum brought the characters to life, reminding me of Alice in Wonderland, and we took a tour that analyzed various paintings in details, their meanings, etc.
This was my first exposure to Hieronymus Bosch, and I must say I enjoyed his work.
Lifestyle of not driving
I really love this lifestyle of walking more than driving personal vehicles that exists in Europe. I live it in Ireland, and I'm living it in Holland.
Every day I've been walking 20 minutes to my office. Then yesterday, I walked 30 minutes to the train station, took 1.5 hours to get to Amsterdam by train, then walked around that city, took the trams a few times, then got on the train back to Eindhoven. I arrived in Eindhoven at 9:30pm, and walked 30 minutes back to my hotel--in the dark and cold, but I thought nothing of it. If I were in the US and had never lived abroad, I would probably find this so inconvenient, to be "forced" to walk so far in the dark, without a heater, and unprotected by the elements. However, I actually feel a great sense of "freedom" being able to walk wherever I need to go, or to hop on a train for a day trip wherever I desire. Indeed, this has become so normal, and I quite enjoy living in a place so amenable to this!
I also love that in Europe, there are always people out walking about, you're never alone on the streets and can always look out your window and people watch. There are couples meandering through the city, sitting on benching, walking through parks--they are not confined to the car, home or indoor location. You'll find them just sitting on the streetside, walking to and fro. This lends itself more to a community feel and enjoying leisurely conversation instead of requiring a "plan of activity" or "event" to keep persons interacting and occupied (in cities in the US, it seems there is sometimes a mentality of "we always have to be 'doing' something").
Well, and in general, who doesn't like to people watch??
Every day I've been walking 20 minutes to my office. Then yesterday, I walked 30 minutes to the train station, took 1.5 hours to get to Amsterdam by train, then walked around that city, took the trams a few times, then got on the train back to Eindhoven. I arrived in Eindhoven at 9:30pm, and walked 30 minutes back to my hotel--in the dark and cold, but I thought nothing of it. If I were in the US and had never lived abroad, I would probably find this so inconvenient, to be "forced" to walk so far in the dark, without a heater, and unprotected by the elements. However, I actually feel a great sense of "freedom" being able to walk wherever I need to go, or to hop on a train for a day trip wherever I desire. Indeed, this has become so normal, and I quite enjoy living in a place so amenable to this!
I also love that in Europe, there are always people out walking about, you're never alone on the streets and can always look out your window and people watch. There are couples meandering through the city, sitting on benching, walking through parks--they are not confined to the car, home or indoor location. You'll find them just sitting on the streetside, walking to and fro. This lends itself more to a community feel and enjoying leisurely conversation instead of requiring a "plan of activity" or "event" to keep persons interacting and occupied (in cities in the US, it seems there is sometimes a mentality of "we always have to be 'doing' something").
Well, and in general, who doesn't like to people watch??
Running in Holland
This morning I did a 9 mile run through the parks, woods, and fields on the outskirts of Eindhoven. It is a gorgeous morning, with the sun, blue skies and about 45 degrees. I've always liked exploring a town on foot. Time to get cleaned up and take another day trip to a neighboring town.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Coffee Shops
In The Netherlands, one goes to a cafe to get a cup of coffee, and goes to a coffee shop to get some marijuana.
A Dutch professor tried to explain to me the philosophy of the Dutch regarding legalized prostitution and the decriminalization of soft drugs. The idea is not to not marginalize and isolate teens who do these soft drugs, to not lump them with the criminal "hard" crowd. They believe they are offering an in between, so the teens aren’t thrust into bad crowd, and trapped into a marginalized cycle of criminality. At least that's the philosophy behind it...who knows if it works. Regarding legalized prostitution, the idea is that this increases the ability to offer help to these woman (sometimes there are coffee houses for them in the areas where these "window businesses" are), it helps the officials to keep aware of their identity, it prevents a hidden slavery culture, and it causes men to have to come out in front in order to get services instead of it being in secret. The professor also brought up Euthanasia--The Netherlands is the only country in the world where this is openly practiced. It is still a criminal offense, but there are precise policies surrounding when this assisted suicide is allowed. I can't remember enough of the details to record them here, but you can always learn more by Googling. :)
A Dutch professor tried to explain to me the philosophy of the Dutch regarding legalized prostitution and the decriminalization of soft drugs. The idea is not to not marginalize and isolate teens who do these soft drugs, to not lump them with the criminal "hard" crowd. They believe they are offering an in between, so the teens aren’t thrust into bad crowd, and trapped into a marginalized cycle of criminality. At least that's the philosophy behind it...who knows if it works. Regarding legalized prostitution, the idea is that this increases the ability to offer help to these woman (sometimes there are coffee houses for them in the areas where these "window businesses" are), it helps the officials to keep aware of their identity, it prevents a hidden slavery culture, and it causes men to have to come out in front in order to get services instead of it being in secret. The professor also brought up Euthanasia--The Netherlands is the only country in the world where this is openly practiced. It is still a criminal offense, but there are precise policies surrounding when this assisted suicide is allowed. I can't remember enough of the details to record them here, but you can always learn more by Googling. :)
Amsterdam
I took a day trip to Amsterdam...on my own...should be an adventure, eh?
The stereotype of Amsterdam is often one of prostitution and drugs being widely available and acceptable. However, this is a gross misportrayal of the city! There are canals running throughout the city, almost paralleling every street. These are lined with trees and tall houses with the famous ornamental gables at the top. I found the architecture of all the buildings really impressive and the overall atmosphere so charming!
Indeed, Amsterdam is a place of tremendous culture. I went to the Van Gogh Museum, and the Rijksmuseum, which houses many of Rembrandt's work. It's so awesome to see these famous artists' original paintings! I've studied them in college and gained a real appreciation, and I'm able to be in their homeland and see their work. There really is such tremendous talent, fine skill and reservoir of expression in their paintings. (Learning more about Van Gogh's difficult life, while journeying through the work he produced at those times brought more meaning to it all.) It's amazing how visual art evokes an unspoken emotion that is felt without need for words--music does the same thing, though in a different way. Mmm.
I took a canal cruise, seeing and learning about many historical and artistic places. I found the Begijnhof, a quiet courtyard surrounded by old houses, once occupied by Beguine nuns, and still home to single women today--only a narrow vaulted passageway leading to this hidden garden. I went in the two old and famous churches, a tulip market, and the Anne Frank house.
Finally, I made my way to the red light district...I had been told I should go before dark, just to see what it's like. The streets are lined with coffee shops--but a coffee shop in The Netherlands means a shop where you can get hash/marajuana (soft drugs). This is definitely not a place for a cappuccino! Even as you walk past, you can smell it. Everywhere there were neon signs advertising the coffee shops and the sex shops. Very explicitly...
I turned down a side street and suddenly realized I was on a street for window prostitution. I don't want to go into detail in this blog, but let's just say I was thoroughly startled, very uncomfortable and tried to get off this street as soon as possible (which was not easy).
So I quickly had spent more than enough time in this area, and made my way back to the truly delightful parts of Amsterdam. Indeed, it is a great city and now is on my list of top favorites!
The stereotype of Amsterdam is often one of prostitution and drugs being widely available and acceptable. However, this is a gross misportrayal of the city! There are canals running throughout the city, almost paralleling every street. These are lined with trees and tall houses with the famous ornamental gables at the top. I found the architecture of all the buildings really impressive and the overall atmosphere so charming!
Indeed, Amsterdam is a place of tremendous culture. I went to the Van Gogh Museum, and the Rijksmuseum, which houses many of Rembrandt's work. It's so awesome to see these famous artists' original paintings! I've studied them in college and gained a real appreciation, and I'm able to be in their homeland and see their work. There really is such tremendous talent, fine skill and reservoir of expression in their paintings. (Learning more about Van Gogh's difficult life, while journeying through the work he produced at those times brought more meaning to it all.) It's amazing how visual art evokes an unspoken emotion that is felt without need for words--music does the same thing, though in a different way. Mmm.
I took a canal cruise, seeing and learning about many historical and artistic places. I found the Begijnhof, a quiet courtyard surrounded by old houses, once occupied by Beguine nuns, and still home to single women today--only a narrow vaulted passageway leading to this hidden garden. I went in the two old and famous churches, a tulip market, and the Anne Frank house.
Finally, I made my way to the red light district...I had been told I should go before dark, just to see what it's like. The streets are lined with coffee shops--but a coffee shop in The Netherlands means a shop where you can get hash/marajuana (soft drugs). This is definitely not a place for a cappuccino! Even as you walk past, you can smell it. Everywhere there were neon signs advertising the coffee shops and the sex shops. Very explicitly...
I turned down a side street and suddenly realized I was on a street for window prostitution. I don't want to go into detail in this blog, but let's just say I was thoroughly startled, very uncomfortable and tried to get off this street as soon as possible (which was not easy).
So I quickly had spent more than enough time in this area, and made my way back to the truly delightful parts of Amsterdam. Indeed, it is a great city and now is on my list of top favorites!
Friday, February 8, 2008
Bicycling in Holland
A colleague invited me out with her friends to a Turkish restaurant (delicious food!) and let me borrow her extra bicycle. So I had the experience of riding a bicycle in Holland! :) It was so cool to be “driving” through the streets with the hoards of other cyclists...I really felt like a local!
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
The Dutch and a Geography Lesson
The Dutch people are very kind and hospitable, and this seems to be a consensus opinion among tourists. They are also very considerate about speaking in English whenever a foreigner is present, which I really appreciated. However, their traditional food is terrible--fried cheese, fried meat/gravy/mystery stuff ("croquettes"), fried potatoes with mayonnaise ("frites"), etc.
Tonight I went to a colleague's home for dinner (a delicious Chinese meal). I learned about the difference between Holland and The Netherlands ("low countries"), which are often used synonymously. Technically, Holland just makes up two of the twelve provinces of The Netherlands (North and South Holland), along the central west coast. Historically, Holland was the most powerful province and the cities there were important trading cities, so when others met the Dutch, they were usually meeting people from Holland in particular. By the way, the capital of The Netherlands is Amsterdam (in Holland), though the government is in The Hague, and the queen lives elsewhere. :)
This led to a geography lesson whereby each person present drew a map of their country and the prominent boundaries and cities within. Everyone present was from Europe, and hence had some sense of the other countries already (although I realized my knowledge of French cities is quite minimal), but they were quite unaware of the US states. They were flabbergasted when I drew a map detailed with names, borders and appropriate proportions of all 50 states.
Tonight I went to a colleague's home for dinner (a delicious Chinese meal). I learned about the difference between Holland and The Netherlands ("low countries"), which are often used synonymously. Technically, Holland just makes up two of the twelve provinces of The Netherlands (North and South Holland), along the central west coast. Historically, Holland was the most powerful province and the cities there were important trading cities, so when others met the Dutch, they were usually meeting people from Holland in particular. By the way, the capital of The Netherlands is Amsterdam (in Holland), though the government is in The Hague, and the queen lives elsewhere. :)
This led to a geography lesson whereby each person present drew a map of their country and the prominent boundaries and cities within. Everyone present was from Europe, and hence had some sense of the other countries already (although I realized my knowledge of French cities is quite minimal), but they were quite unaware of the US states. They were flabbergasted when I drew a map detailed with names, borders and appropriate proportions of all 50 states.
Monday, February 4, 2008
Eindhoven, The Netherlands
I'm now in Eindhoven, The Netherlands. This is the home of Phillips--as in Phillips light bulbs. Yup, the city is pretty much dominated by all things related to Philips, from statues, to factories, to museums and impressive lighting displays. I will be collaborating with some folks here, but I won't bore you with talk of mathematical cryptography. Instead I will make some observations...
The celebration of Carnival here is a bit different that in Germany. The Germans had more coherent themes to their costumes--dressing up as a particular character (e.g. doctor, cat, etc.). The Dutch simply dress up as colorful and wild/weird/ostentatiously as possible. This results in a lot of crazy, bewildering encounters on the train, in the streets, and in cafes.
I went with a colleague to a Mexican restaurant--I knew it would be nothing like the Tex-Mex I grew up with, but was curious what I'd find. We shared nachos as an appetizer...and they tasted like pizza, I kid you not. It was basically "tortillas" (flour/water...could be a pizza crust) crisped in the oven, topped with "salsa" (actually a tomato sauce suspiciously reminiscent of pizza or spaghetti sauce) and mozzarella cheese (not Monterrey Jack cheese or other more Mexican-flavored). Viola, you've got pizza. I squirted a lot of tabasco sauce on it, to give it some kick, but that didn't help much. I ordered a burrito with kidney beans as the filling (as opposed to chicken or beef), and it was quite tasty. Not like anything I've had in a Mexican restaurant before, but nevertheless very good.
The celebration of Carnival here is a bit different that in Germany. The Germans had more coherent themes to their costumes--dressing up as a particular character (e.g. doctor, cat, etc.). The Dutch simply dress up as colorful and wild/weird/ostentatiously as possible. This results in a lot of crazy, bewildering encounters on the train, in the streets, and in cafes.
I went with a colleague to a Mexican restaurant--I knew it would be nothing like the Tex-Mex I grew up with, but was curious what I'd find. We shared nachos as an appetizer...and they tasted like pizza, I kid you not. It was basically "tortillas" (flour/water...could be a pizza crust) crisped in the oven, topped with "salsa" (actually a tomato sauce suspiciously reminiscent of pizza or spaghetti sauce) and mozzarella cheese (not Monterrey Jack cheese or other more Mexican-flavored). Viola, you've got pizza. I squirted a lot of tabasco sauce on it, to give it some kick, but that didn't help much. I ordered a burrito with kidney beans as the filling (as opposed to chicken or beef), and it was quite tasty. Not like anything I've had in a Mexican restaurant before, but nevertheless very good.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
Carnival
It is the infamous season of Carnival in Germany! Actually, it is biggest in the Cologne region, which is where I am. It began on the 11th day of November (11/11) and goes until the Tuesday before Lent begins; that is, the day before Ash Wednesday. The culmination is this weekend, and what a festival atmosphere it is! The closest thing in the US would be Mardi Gras, but that's still very different from this Carnival.
All the restaurants, buildings and public spaces are decorated for Carnival, many host parties every night, and most of the people out and about are in costume. I'm not talking about just dressing in costume on one evening for a particular event--no, these people dress up every night and wander the streets, have coffee, go to a restaurant, go to a bar, etc. It's quite humorous to see adults wearing animal ears and a tail, or clowns and fairies walking down the street.
I spent the weekend in Aachen, Germany, and went to the Carnival parade on Sunday morning. This was the children's parade--the big official parade is tomorrow, but I won't see, due to work. Thanks to my friend's mother, I dressed as a surgeon (full scrubs that tie in the back and all), and joined the crowds (all in costume, of course) for the merriment. Lots of Germans singing their traditional songs and saying "Alaaf!" which is the traditional Carnival shout. The parade lasted 2 1/2 hours and not only was candy thrown, but also waffles, bags of popcorn, and large bags of cookies and chocolates--would be rather painful to have one hit you in the head! I was quite impressed by this parade, and it was only the children's...I can't imagine what a hooplah the adults' would be.
I feel I've done a very poor job describing this, but take my word for it: I experienced a very unique and lively German tradition!
All the restaurants, buildings and public spaces are decorated for Carnival, many host parties every night, and most of the people out and about are in costume. I'm not talking about just dressing in costume on one evening for a particular event--no, these people dress up every night and wander the streets, have coffee, go to a restaurant, go to a bar, etc. It's quite humorous to see adults wearing animal ears and a tail, or clowns and fairies walking down the street.
I spent the weekend in Aachen, Germany, and went to the Carnival parade on Sunday morning. This was the children's parade--the big official parade is tomorrow, but I won't see, due to work. Thanks to my friend's mother, I dressed as a surgeon (full scrubs that tie in the back and all), and joined the crowds (all in costume, of course) for the merriment. Lots of Germans singing their traditional songs and saying "Alaaf!" which is the traditional Carnival shout. The parade lasted 2 1/2 hours and not only was candy thrown, but also waffles, bags of popcorn, and large bags of cookies and chocolates--would be rather painful to have one hit you in the head! I was quite impressed by this parade, and it was only the children's...I can't imagine what a hooplah the adults' would be.
I feel I've done a very poor job describing this, but take my word for it: I experienced a very unique and lively German tradition!
Saturday, February 2, 2008
16 Days on the Continent
I am spending 16 days in The Netherlands and in Germany, for work. Although this blog is primarily for Irish encounters, I may take the liberty to post experiences from my time in mainland Europe...
Friday, February 1, 2008
"The Pope's Children," by David McWilliams
I finished a book called "The Pope's Children," by David McWilliams. I'm pressed for time, but wanted to mention this, so I'll just refer you to Wikipedia's entry:
"The Pope's Children is a book by journalist and economist David McWilliams. In his book McWilliams describes the effects that the Celtic Tiger and the property boom have had on the Republic of Ireland, resulting in the rise of a new bourgeoise.
"The Pope's Children is a book by journalist and economist David McWilliams. In his book McWilliams describes the effects that the Celtic Tiger and the property boom have had on the Republic of Ireland, resulting in the rise of a new bourgeoise.
The book's title reflects McWilliams' belief that the visit of Pope John Paul II to Ireland in the autumn of 1979 was a watershed in the country's history. The children born during that period (who are now between the ages of 25 and 35) are "The Pope's Children" – the first generation since the Great Famine of the mid-19th century to experience an increase in the size of the population. (The rise in birth rates in Ireland began in the early 1970s and peaked in June 1980, exactly nine months after the pope's visit.) According to McWilliams, these 620,000 people became the country's key generation. They are the dynamo of Ireland's economy, politics and culture, and they will shape its face in the 21st century."
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