Television License

In Ireland, if you own a television, then you must pay a 150 euro per year fee. Simply for having one in your home--and there are officials who come knocking on your door to come inside and see if you have a t.v. with no license.

It is managed by the postal company, and here is a quote from their website explaining it:
"Under the current Wireless Telegraphy Legislation it is a prosecutable offence to be found in possession of an unlicensed television set. Fines for an unlicensed television set can be up to €635 for a first offence."

Actually, any equipment capable of receiving a television signal (using an aerial, satellite dish, cable or other means) must have a television license. So if you have the capability on your computer to receive such a signal, then you must pay. If you move homes, then you must have the address on your license changed.

Why? Well, it has something to do with the public service broadcasting delivered by RTE, the national broadcasting organization. I guess instead of being like PBS having telethons to raise money in the US, here the government requires you to fund the service. You can Google it if you're really interested in finding more about it, I'll leave the research to you.

Halloween

Last week at sunset I was running through the nearby park and discovered a group of kids building a large bonfire--complete with cardboard boxes and crates stacked high and flames waving violently. I was shocked at the sight, not to mentioned that there seemed to be no adult supervision, and considered asking the people I was passing along on the path what was going on, if someone should notify the authorities or something. However, passersby seemed unaffected, so I did nothing...as I continued, I found another group of kids shooting firecrackers (which I knew were illegal). Hmm...The next night in my evening run through a different park, I again found kids shooting firecrackers (with no adult supervision).

Soon I discovered that essentially every evening in October, one can hear the sound of firecrackers in the air, and very likely find a bonfire somewhere. As I type write now, there has been continual popping for a solid hour and a half--and the night is just beginning. So what's the story?

Why, Halloween of course. It is quite a festivity here--with not merely decorations throughout the month, but these activities with fire...in the streets of residential areas, all illegal (and dangerous?), mind you, but laws (in general) tend not to be enforced. There are also parades and fireworks displayed sponsored by communities/organizations, and of course trick-or-treating.

When I ask people about the meaning of this holiday, there are varied answers, including comments about the Festival of the Dead, the pagan history that dominated Ireland's past, about this being the day when the spiritual world is closest to the natural world, also being the day before the All Souls and All Saints Days celebrated in the Catholic Church, and also it being an effect of commercialization from the US.

Well, all I know is I'm feeling like it's a combination of the Fourth of July and the night before the Aggie-UT football game...

Pumpkins

Evidently, pumpkins only recently arrived in Ireland. Just a few years ago, they were carving jack-o-lanterns out of turnips! Yes, turnips. And forget looking for canned pumpkin in the stores--it is a staple in my pantry in the US, as I love pumpkin bread--people look at me like I'm crazy when I ask where the canned pumpkin is.
Meanwhile, this season just isn't Fall without pumpkin bread baking in the oven...so I bought a real pumpkin and made some bread from it (just to see if I could...and to save my canned pumpkin that a friend mailed me from TX for times of the year when the whole pumpkins are no longer in the stores.) It turned out okay, but a somewhat different taste and texture. I prefer the canned version, not to mention it is much easier!

Grocery Shopping

In the US, it often benefits the buy to purchase an item in larger quantities in order to get a better deal, more for their money. This is part of the concept behind Sam's Club or Costco, yes? Well, I can't trust the Irish sellers to abide by such a principle...which often catches me off guard, as their method just seems so counter-intuitive.
Here are a few examples:
1) 500g of bread flour is .87 euro. 1kg of bread flour is 2.19. Thus, I am better off buying two of the smaller bags as needed, rather than buying on larger bag.
2) 20 tea bags are 1.07 euro. 40 tea bags are 2.39 euro. Again, I am better of buying two boxes of 20 tea bags rather than one box of 40.
3) 6 eggs are .79 euro. 12 eggs are 1.69 euro. Ditto.
4) 750 g bag of frozen broccoli is 2.02 euro. 500 g bag of frozen broccoli is 2.15 euro. Now that one really doesn't make sense!

Thus I really have to watch the prices and sizes, and not assume the sellers operate on the American principles! I guess in Ireland you pay extra for the convenience of not having to return to the store as soon, whereas in the US you pay extra for have smaller portions of fresh items.

Another fact about grocery stores is that they sell out early in the day! So if you want meat or fish, you must arrive by 10am before the day's portions are sold. Also, shelves of dry goods are sparse by 4pm...you'd think we're in a Communist country! Okay, it's not that bad. :)

Bank Security

I haven't written in a long time about the banks here, though the topic dominated many of my earlier posts. Well, today I was reminded that one doesn't just walk easily into a bank. There are three doors. You press a button to enter the first door into a small enclosed area. You must wait for the door to shut behind you, followed by 3 seconds until the white light comes on in the next button in front of you. You press it and then either a red "wait" button is lit, or a greed "enter" button is lit. Then you enter into the next identical enclosed area and repeat this process in order to enter the bank.
Yes, the Irish are serious about their bank security! So much for the friendly welcoming patterns of the US banks, where coffee and treats are waiting for the customer...

Bank Holiday and Dublin Marathon

Today was a bank holiday. Not really celebrating anything in particular, just a reason for a break. (I guess when the US needs these, they tack on some meaning, such as Labor Day, President's Day, etc...but the Irish don't need a reason for good "Craic"!)*
It always falls on the last Monday of October. Actually, it's become sort of a Halloween holiday, not officially, but the timing is so near. Students (or "pupils" as they call them here) get the entire week off for mid-term break.
It's also the day that the adidas Dublin City Marathon is always held. Since I haven't trained for the race but wanted to be involved, I volunteered to "marshal" the spectators near the finish line. (I also got an awesome adidas running jacket and cap.) I've never been at the finish line of a race like this in time to see the winners. I'm either running in it, or watching a friend run somewhere else. So it was fun to see the elite runners cruise across the finish line, the first man at 2:09:07, first lady at 2:29:20. (Both were Russians...I could create a pun with that, but I won't...) It was a gorgeous day, not a cloud in the sky, and about 50 degrees.
Anyhow, seeing the look on the runners faces, looking into their eyes, was a powerful experience--there was a gradual change in the demeanor of the persons crossing as the time passed. I saw victory, focus, pride, amazement, weariness, pain, fear, laughter at the absurdity of what they've done, misery, sickness, weeping, dazed and confused, delirious, more pain. Regardless, each person who crossed that finish line is undoubtedly a transformed person after the training and accomplishment fulfilled today.

* Craic is Irish for "fun, enjoyment, light-hearted mischief".

Have a spanner?

I am borrowing a bike from a friend, and when he gave it to me, he said I might need a spanner to adjust the height of the seat. A "spanner?" The context made me know it must be a wrench, and sure enough that is correct. So add that one to your vocabulary.

Also, I was telling a lady that I ran to Dalkey, pronouncing it exactly as it's spelled. Her reply was,

"Oh no, we don't pronounce the 'L.' Dalkey is just like 'walk', you don't hear the 'L'."

Can you imagine my confusion? I don't know about you, but I find 'walk' to be a poor example of silencing the 'L.'

Black and White Pudding

The Irish will tell you they have two kinds of pudding: black/white pudding or Christmas pudding. Neither of which is dairy based, certainly not custard-like.

Black pudding is basically congealed blood, together with some barley or oats as a filler. White pudding is similar, except without the blood--it's just sausage-like meat and fat together with the filler. These are standard in the traditional Irish breakfast.

Have I tried some? Well...on accident. I ordered a full Irish breakfast (unaware of all that was included on the menu) and after eating some of the hushpuppie-looking things (fried ball of some sort) and not being able to tell what the inside was, I asked a person at a nearby table and discovered what I was eating. Wow. Glad that's done with, I can say I've had it, and will never have to do so again. (It actually had a lot of flavor, somewhat tasty, but the thought of the ingredients utterly takes away all appeal and enjoyment.)

Squirrels

I was having lunch with a family in their home on Sunday and in the middle of the meal, the mother cried out "Oh! There's a squirrel!" This proclamation caused all six people (2 parents, 4 teenagers) to leap to their feet and run to the window and marvel at the squirrel...for quite some time.

I was the only one left sitting at the table, finding this scene a bit curious. Should I tell them that we had so many squirrels in our yard growing up, that we had to shoot some? Dare I tell them what a nuisance squirrels can be when then chunk pecans at your roof or scamper around noisily on the roof when you're trying to sleep? No, this would ruin their pleasure right now.

I tactfully noted that we had many squirrels in our pecan trees in Texas. The family was exceedingly envious. I then learned from them that there are only 20 mammals in Ireland. And definitely no snakes. (Legend says St. Patrick rid the island of the the snakes.)

Going to the Airport

I took a bus to Heathrow Airport. At some point we had to stop for a passing train (but didn’t realize the train was the reason). We just sat still for what seemed like an eternity--enough to drive me batty. Soon I began laughing because I looked out the window and saw a really old man on his electric wheelchair passing us by on the sidewalk! It was so funny! I felt like I was in the movie "Office Space."

Then I noticed another passenger’s on the bus was wearing a blouse that had a pattern almost exactly like the pattern on the seats of the bus. Royal blue with small speckled geometric shapes in red and yellow. I struggled to retain my giggling, she really blended in! And when she got off the bus, it was as if a seat was going with her. Haha, this was too funny. All this is to say, I kept myself amused on the long bus ride. :)

This was my first time to fly with Aer Lingus. My flight cost 1 euro going and 19 euro returning. Well, plus 50 euro in taxes/fees. Also, you're not allowed to check any bags, unless you pay a fee--5 euro (each way) if reserved online, 8 euro if upon arrival. Interesting, eh?

Foot & Mouth Disease

I was staying in Egham which is right near the Windsor Great Park, vast property of the Crown, so I had been eager to go for a long run through the park on this sunny morning of around 52 degrees. However, I learned that the park was closed due to the Foot & Mouth disease. It seems they want to protect the Queen's deer from getting infected. So I decided I'd run through the nearby Runnymede Park, the grounds on which the Magna Carta was signed in 1215. However, when I reached it, I found signs declaring all entrances to be closed because the cattle in those fields actually had Foot & Mouth. So I continued on the path outside the fence. Eventually I made it to the Air Force Memorial (honoring the 20,000 people with no graves who died flying in WWII), which had a great view of the area. I saw the River Thames in the distance, lined with colorful trees and decided I'd run to the town of Old Windsor, then run along the river back to Egham.
Well...I ended up taking a few detours along very windy and hilly roads...fortunately various elderly people out for a morning stroll helped to point me in the right direction...only to discover that portions of the "toepath" along the river was closed due to Foot & Mouth.
Nevertheless, throughout this 11.5 miles, I did see some lovely sights! I was carrying my camera, and it was quite a pleasant adventure. Eventually I ended up in Egham, and enjoyed a blueberry smoothie and mozzarella/tomato/pesto panini before heading back up the hill to the university.

Traversing London

After fulfilling my work responsibilities, I spent a day traversing the city of London. I had no map, no guidebook, and no real plan of action. I just too the only train that goes from Egham (where the university is) to London (Waterloo station) and sort of spontaneously decided what I'd do as I went along.
Sound ridiculous, to have made no preparation for managing in this enormous city? Well, okay, so 8 years ago I lived in London for 4 months, so I was prepared to rely on my memory...
The day went amazingly smoothly! I hit all the sights that I would have cared to see, and with great ease!
First, I went to the Holy Communion service at Westminster Abbey. Then I walked past the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, then along the River Thames, past the London Eye (ferris wheel in back left of Big Ben picture), up to Trafalgar Square, then up to Leicester Square. I walked through Chinatown and had a great lunch in a Japanese restaurant. Then I walked to Piccadilly Circus, then took the Tube to Hyde Park and walked the length of it to Kensington Gardens. The colourful Autumn leaves make it a delightful place to be this time of year!

Then I took the back streets to the area where I lived and had fun visiting the house, the same cafes, markets, etc. Now then, my favorite place in London back then had been the Tower Bridge at night. It just happened to be sunset at this time, so I took the Tube to the Tower of London, walked alongside it--in all its ancient and gruesome mystery at dusk--then to the Tower Bridge, crossed it and walked along the River Thames, now nighttime. Indeed this is still my favorite place (and it's only such at night), for this is when the magic and wonder emerges. It is at moments like this that you marvel at the opportunity to be in London, which enjoying the peaceful, crisp night air with such a glorious backdrop.

Remembering Past Days in London

I sat outside the house where I lived in 1999 and remembered what a formative experience that time studying in London had been. Actually, it was in the Fall, just as now, so now I could even feel the same weather and sensations in the air. I remember the excitement I had about living abroad. I loved exploring the city and traveling with every opportunity. This is when I gained a sense of confidence and independence. I had never previously really embraced life as a single adult in a big city, and so there I was having such freedom and so much adventure at my fingertips--for me to decide what, where, and when I was going to do something. I realized then that it was up to me to seize every opportunity—academically, culturally, spiritually, relationally. I could pursue what I wanted, be anything, go anywhere (by God's grace)—the whole world had opened up to me. Yes, eight years ago this is what planted the seeds that enabled me to go and do and be who I am now.

I remember the day I left London, it was so sad, as I wondered if I’d ever be back. I behaved as if I wouldn’t be. As far as I knew, I was returning to school in Alabama, and otherwise had family in Texas. Back then I was working on my Bachelor's degree, having no idea I would ever pursue, much less have completed, a Ph.D. at this point...and little did I know then that now I’d be living in Dublin, working in London...indeed it is so interesting to have these moments of looking back, reflecting on where we've come from, where we're going, and all the formative experiences that have helped to shape who we are--fostered our desires, developed our character, challenged our worldview, instilled a sense of calling or purpose in life...

In some sense, I feel like I've come full circle. I am somehow at another crossroads in life. (Are these two geometric figures of speech conflicting or is it okay to use them as I have...?)
There I sat, in the same place--geographically, seasonally, metaphorically--yet from a different angle. And similar questions arise...I am wondering what the next adventure is that life will bring?

Royal Holloway University of London

I am at Royal Holloway University of London this week, giving a talk at a seminar among other things. The above photo is the university's main ("Founder's") building, built around 1880. It's a beautiful campus, near Windsor Great Park, the royal hunting grounds and gardens.

Car Boot Sale

I keep seeing signs for Car Boot Sales--often as fundraisers for schools, churches, charities, etc. What in the world is a car boot?? I keep picturing the brake shoes on my car, but know this can't be it...

Well...a car boot is the trunk of a car! So these car boot sales are basically the combination of a yard sale and a tailgate party! A person will pay 10 euro to get a parking space for their car, and the trunk will be full of odds and ends--items similar to those in a garage sale or flea market. All the cars will open their trunks so that the persons from the community coming through can bartar and buy things and great prices. Other cars will have coffee/tea/treats and be a center for chatting with your neighbors. Brilliant. Someone should try this at a tailgate party of the next UT football game...?

Stones

In a store for runners, the assistant selling the shoes indicates that a certain one is for persons of 12 stones or more. Huh? Yes, a person of 12 stones or more.

Evidently, a "stone" is a unit of weight--part of the Imperial system (along with pounds instead of kilograms, feet instead of meters, etc.)--equaling 14 pounds. So those shoes were for persons weighing more than 168 pounds.

A few days later I was conversing with an elderly woman who told me she lost a stone in the park. At first I thought she dropped a piece of jewelry, but then I recalled the educational experience in the shoe store. Indeed, her point was that by walking around the park every morning, she lost weight!

This is good...one's weight can fluctuate a few pounds here and there but one remains approximately the same stone...

Bono's and Bray

Evidently I live 5 miles from Bono's house (lead singer of U2). It looks like a castle and has a nice view of the coast, just next to Killiney Hill. (No picture of the house because I was running at the time...) It is along a stretch of road that has some impressive mansions, beautiful views of the Irish Sea, and a view of the Bray beach.

Bray is a town about 10 miles south of my house, and the pictures below are from Bray Head, a small hill one can climb for a great view.